Mountain: K2
Route: North Ridge
Country: Xinjiang, China
Height: 8611 meters/28,250 feet
Dates of Expedition: June-September, 1996
Overview of climb: I began my expedition working with the Polish expedition. However, I summited with the competent Russian team led by Ivan Dusharin.
Team Members: Ivan T. Dusharin, Leader Andrei Y. Volkov, Co-Leader Lubov V. Shvedova, team physician Alexander P. Nestorov, team cook Vladimir V. Shuvalov, cameraman Ilya V. Sabelnikov Viktor G. Kolesnichenko Vladimir A. Udin Vladimir Yu. Jirakovskiy Oleg I. Meshkov Sergei A. Sokolov Sergei K. Penzov Mikhail V. Ishutin Igor V. Benkin Rinat R. Temirbaev Alexander S. Dosaev Andrei N. Mariev Vadim G. Melnikov Vitaly V. Klimenko Carlos P. Buhler
Lasting Impression:
My third attempt on K2 was a terribly stressful summer. Fractures in my Polish-Italian-American team led to me having no reasonable partner with whom to climb. I realized the Russsian team led by Ivan and Andrei was a superbly organised unit and asked them if I could join their effort. They accepted me as a full team member because I had met Ivan Dusharin 18 years earlier in 1978 during our Soviet American Exchange Expedition to the Pamir. A bitter sweet ending came after a very difficult climb. I summited with two great Russian team mates; first Sergei Pensov and myself, followed an hour later by Igor Benkin. http://www.shura007.com/k2/1996k2/english/appendix/team/benkin.html
Well insulated from the cold, I waited alone for Igor on the summit while Sergei descended. But during our descent at night, Igor succumbed to mental confusion, possibly cerebral edema and finally exhaustion. We were only a few hours above our tent at 7950 meters when Igor refused to contnue downwards along the thin lines we had left earlier across the steep ice fields. He was convinced that we were following a misguided route and, despite my pleading, began to reascend our lines. Tragically, I reached the tent without Igor. He was never seen again. For in depth information, the Russians created an early 1996 internet presentation which can still be found here: http://www.shura007.com/k2/1996k2/english/home.html
