Mountain: University Peak
Route: East Face
Country: Alaska, USA
Height: 4410 meters/14,470 feet
Dates of Expedition: May, 1997
Overview of climb: Charlie and I were enthralled with the beauty University Peak while flying past it with Paul Claus. We envisioned a traverse beginning up the 2500 meter East Flank and descending down the North Ridge.
Team Members: Charles Sassara Carlos Buhler
Lasting Impression:
During our first bivouac on the peak, we were engulfed in a snow storm and believed our attempt was over. We accepted defeat and binged on most of our good food, while waiting until morning. Miraculously, the morning cleared and we could only imagine climbing upwards. With lighter packs and less food, we probably moved faster although our margin was thinner. Fortunately, the weather remained reasonably stable and we were able to complete the climb to the summit over the next four days. Our pilot, Paul Claus, and Ruedi Homberger saved us from starvation when they dropped us a small food bag on University's summit during their super cub fly by to cheer us on.
