Mountain: Ama Dablam
Route: Northeast Face
Country: Nepal
Height: 6812 meters/22,349 feet
Dates of Expedition: October-December, 1985
Overview of climb: Our objective was an alpine style ascent of the "hidden" North East Face of this spectacularly beautiful peak in the Khumbu Valley. Serious objective danger from falling ice and stones made the cold "winter season" the safest period in which to attempt this exposed and direct route.
Team Members: Michael Kennedy Carlos Buhler Ang Zambu Sherpa, Sirdar
Lasting Impression:
Michael and I spent seven, winter cold nights on this frigid flank of the mountain. After the fifth day, we were fully committed; it became clear that going up and over the top would be far easier than descending the face if the weather changed, or, heaven forbid, we had an accident. Ang Zambu and his father met us on our descent, near Ama Dablam's normal Southwest Ridge Base Camp, with thermoses of hot tea, chapattis, and prayer scarves. It was an unforgettable moment.
