Our view of the North Face from directly beneath it foreshortens the difficulties we know will test us at -20 C.
Climbing up and across the Dolphin allows us to gain some rapid height at the onset of our climb.
Phil Hein, the perfect partner for Temple's North Face in winter; Keen, Level Headed, Skilled, and Patient
Steep sections of mixed rock and ice were separated by easier ramps of ice and snow.
We choosed the line that offers the greatest potential for placing protection.
The view of the Dolphin beneath our heals is expansive and almost overwhelming
Connecting the moves on rock was tedius and delicate through continuous sections of rock. Dry tooling had yet to become a skill I mastered.
I broke a crampon in the extreme cold and brittle ice of the Sera barrier. Phil brings up the gear to finish the pitch as I belayed on the most exposed vertical ice I'd ever been on.
Phil finished the last section up the remaining meters of the ice serac, the last difficult climbing before the much lower angled ice fields.
The extreme wall suddenly gave way to almost casual climbing through the last 150 meters of the face.
With one broken crampon, I hobbled up the final ice fields with care. Luckily I averted disaster when I slipped and began to slide, self arresting before spinning out of control.